Master Bathroom Cabinetry

Note: to view the pictures larger, click on them.

At the beginning of Summer 2007, I finally got underway on a master bathroom remodeling project that has been planned since we moved here in 2003. The remodel includes:

• All new cabinetry
• Installing an antique clawfoot tub
• New tile floor
• Cutting through a skylight that already existed in the roof but was not connected to the room
• Moving the toilet

I got started on the project by creating a Sketchup model. Here is the existing room:

And what we are proposing the new room will look like:

I also created detailed Sketchup drawings of the cabinets.

Construction got underway but cutting up and edgbanding numerous panels. I used labels printed by Cutlist Plus to help identify each part

I prefinished all the panels before assembly. The finish is Minwax Polycrylic with 24 drops/gallon of Transtint Honey Amber dye. The Polycrylic is waterbased for safer spraying. However the waterbased finish raises the grain and requires a good sanding after the first coat to smooth things out. The result looks great though.

While I was at it I assembled the bases and painted the fronts flat black so they will disappear behind the decorative fronts.

Assembling the boxes took two eveings with the vanity being the most difficult due to the sheer number of pieces.

Next I started work on the drawer boxes which are made from 1/2” baltic birch plywood. I used pocket hole joinery, a technique promoted by Mark Singer on the Sawmill Creek forums for cabinetry due to the fact that it is strong and easy.

Once all the drawers were complete, I started working on adding the drawer fronts and instaling the doors. Several different fitting sessions got them to where I was generally happy with the fit and gaps. Fitting included adjusting drawer slides, hinges, trimming, and planing the edges. I purposely made the doors and drawer fronts slightly oversize to allow for this.

The final construction step was to make filler strips which go between the cabinets and the walls. I purposely left space for the filler strips which will be scribed and fitted to the walls during installation. I don’t expect too much fitting on the vanity, but since the cabinet fits between two walls, I expect I’ll have some work to do there so I made the filler strips a few 16ths oversize and back cut them to make them easier to trim away. I also made trim pieces which cover the plywood base.

The cabinets were installed in the room after drywall work and tiling, but before paint since we are having faux painting done and don’t want to risk having to do touch up on that.

The mirror is made to match the cabinet doors/drawer fronts and is sized around a 30×36 mirror.

After painting, we were able to reassemble and complete the room.